Thursday, May 26, 2011

Santa Rosalia

We arrived in Santa Rosalia early enough in the day on May 21st to take a look around the town.  It was built by a french mining company (copper) so most of the buildings are built out of wood with a French/New Orleans flair - quite different from the adobe or cement block you see elsewhere. Their church was even designed by Gustav Eiffel! The mining company has not operated for several decades and the town looks a little economically depressed. Apparently the mine is reopening in a few years and has already started hiring so things are looking up for Santa Rosalia. 

Santa Rosalia is definitely not on the tourist circuit. It is just a friendly and interesting working town. In fact, there are so few "norteamericanos" (tourists or residents) that everyone we meet just seems to know we are on a boat. Very refreshing!
Loomba-Loomba at the 12 boat Marina Santa Rosalia.
There is wifi on the boat!
View from the dock - many abandoned buildings along the waterfront.
A fishing boat loading sardines onto a truck on the pier-a little different procedure than in the states.
One of the town plazas in Santa Rosalia.
 Samples of the Santa Rosalia architecture:
Iglesia Santa Barbara - built in Santa Rosalia in 1897(designed by Eiffel) - still in use.

View of Santa Rosalia "Centro"

The largest grocery store in Santa Rosalia
Good Food in Santa Rosalia:
Chuyitas famous bacon wrapped, deep fried, gooped up hotdogs.
Great BBQ Chicken
One of the many taquerias in town.
Tacos carnitas
The Hotel Frances (circa 1886) serves a great breakfast.
Hotel Frances with linen tablecloths and nice china.
New taco stand with fish and shrimp tacos right around the corner from the marina.
Well, it is now May 26. We had planned on leaving yesterday, but there is a strong southerly forecast for the next few days and there aren't many good south wind anchorages within a days travel from here.  We decided to stay put for a few more days before we start heading south. Since we are at a dock we can do a lot of the prep work for "putting the boat to bed" for the summer and won't have quite so much to do in Puerto Escondido.  So this is a good spot to be stuck!

Monday, May 23, 2011


Well, I've tried everything and can't seem to upload videos taken with the new underwater camera, which is a shame because we have some great underwater shots swimming with the whale sharks. Perhaps it's the setting on the camera, but I have to study the book and figure it out - so for now I've given up on the videos. Maybe when we get to Puerto Escondid???????

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Caleta San Juanico to Santa Rosalia

May 14: We spent one night at Punta Pulpito before heading north to Bahia Concepcion.
Heading into Punta Pulpito.
Exploring the sea caves at Pulpito.

Morning light in Punta Pulpito

We had a great trip up to Bahia Concepcion – motoring part of the way until the wind picked up and we could sail. 

We arrived in Playa Santispac in Bahia Concepcion about 3 PM on May 15th with 20 knot northerlies. Seems there is an afternoon breeze every day that dies down in the evening. 

While in Santispac we hitchhiked into Mulege (14 miles) to buy some supplies and hit an internet cafĂ©, explored El Burro Cove and Bahia Coyote in the dinghy, went to Ana’s restaurant on the beach for dinner,  and spent lots of time watching  several whale sharks that circled around the boats anchored in the bay. They are so big and gentle!
View of Playa Santispac from Hwy 1

Ana's Restaurant on Playa Santispac serves a wicked margarita and great chile rellenos

Mulege church

A storefront in Mulege

Most of the smaller towns have these used clothing stalls.

Rio Santa Rosalia that runs through Mulege

View from the cockpit in Santispac - whale shark circling the boat.

We left Santispac early in the morning on Friday May 20th with a "bon voyage" from the whale sharks and dropped the anchor in Punta Chivato about noon. It turns out we anchored right in front of Oberto's (family friends) house. Unfortunately they had already left for the summer - I hope we can time it better next year. It was a very good anchorage in the light north wind we had. 
Bahia Concepcion to Punta Chivato.

Oberto's front yard - Loomba-Loomba in the background.
Oberto's house in Punta Chivato 
View of the Punta Chivato community and airfield from the walk
 up the hill to the Posada de las Flores Hotel. 
Looking out at Loomba-Loomba from the hotel. 
An amazing shelling beach!
Sunrise - Punta Chivato

On our way to Santa Rosalia

Entering the Santa Rosalia Harbor

Puerto Escondido through Caleta San Juanico

After getting water, fuel, and gasoline we left Puerto Escondido on May 4th at 10am  and arrived in the SW anchorage of Isla Coronados at 1:30. 

It was a beautiful anchorage, but the water was pretty cold and the bee population was a problem so we left early the next morning for Caleta San Juanico.

We had some good sailing from Coronados to San Juanico and arrived to find a big Cinco de Mayo party going on.  Apparently it is an annual event put on by the gringo community in Loreto.  Lots of boats, tents, music, water toys, food and drink. They set up a huge buffet lunch and invited the three cruising boats that were here.

Cinco de Mayo Celebration going on in San Juanico when we arrived
Most of the Loreto crew left on Friday  and we had the bay pretty much to ourselves until 3 other cruisers (including Journey and Full Quiver) arrived in the afternoon. 
Morning view from the cockpit in San Juanico
As the week progressed more boats arrived and not too many left.  It was a fun group of people  and we ended up having beach potlucks several times.
View of the anchorage. Loomba-Loomba is the first boat on the right.
Beach Potluck

We absolutely love San Juanico. Great swimming, snorkeling, beachcombing, hiking and amazing marine life.  It’s our favorite anchorage so far! The highlight was a whale shark that hung around the anchorage for several days. Very curious and gentle. 

Swimming with the whale shark
He would come really close to the boats and dinghies
and circle around to take another look.
The last sunset at San Juanico.
 We left San Juanico on May 14 and headed 9 miles north to Punta Pulpito.

Puerto Escondido/Loreto

Sunrise in the anchorage in Puerto Escondido
We arrived in Puerto Escondido on the 26th of April along with lots of other boats. Loretofest takes place here from the 29th through May 1. It is a huge cruiser’s rally and is a fundraiser for the schools in Loreto. There were approximately 200 boats in the three anchorages in Puerto Escondido. Most of the boats (including Loomba-Loomba) were on numbered mooring buoys. Puerto Escondido is about the only place that can handle that many boats. 
Loretofest activities were just getting underway.

The Loretofest activities included games, seminars, potlucks, music, dancing, raffles, auctions, refreshments and a blindfolded dinghy race.    

Dinghy docks are usually crowded, but this gets the prize!
View of the Puerto Escondido Anchorage 
One day we rented a car with Gerry and Gail on Moshulu and went to Loreto for the day to go to a grocery store and chandlery and explore a little of the area.

View from the road to Loreto looking back towards Puerto Escondido
Loreto town square
Mission of Our Lady of Loreto
Mural outside of a school in Loreto
The "world famous" El Rey Tacqueria

We went to the Chandlery in Loreto to get a few thing for the boat -
lots of other cruisers had the same idea - but it was closed for the afternoon "siesta" time!
We left Puerto Escondido on Wednesday, May 4  - heading north..........